Polka-dotted rice paddies

Rice paddy art using different colored rice :3

It is an exquisite feeling when you first step into the mud of a Japanese rice paddy field. Rubber boots or wellingtons are useless here since you'd only get stuck with them in the mud and they can also damage the roots of the rice plants. So you go with bare feet, lifting up your pant legs high enough not to get yourself wet (although sometimes the water level is high enough that there's no way to keep your pants dry) ;3

On a hot midsummer's day in central Japan the mud is at the same time cool and warm. It is cooler than the roasting bare ground but warmer than the water, having stored some of the heat from the sunlight piercing under the crystal clear surface. 

My friend's paddy in Kumamoto, Kyushu

Depending on the state of the field, somewhere down below there is hard ground under all this mud. Otherwise the water would all just seep away into the ground. This is also fortunate for you and reassuring to know - you won't sink in all the way. Typically the mud on top is very soft and loose and after a while you get used to walking in it if you are careful. It only gets sticky if you try to move too fast.

You should wear a large brimmed hat to shade you from the blazing sun (I for example don't get a tan - I just burn!) and a wet towel around your neck helps to evade the eventual heat exhaustion for a while longer. And tea, drink lots of tea :3

Occasionally you glance at the sky when you hear the cry of the hawks or endangered mountain eagles circling the thermals overhead. The green sea of rice stalks, clear blue sky and the snow topped mountains encircling you create a dreamscape you won't want to wake up from.

Organic 'black' rice almost ripe for harvest

The agricultural area and village of Azumino is located in a long valley in Nagano Prefecture in central Japan - also known as the Alps of Japan. Surrounded by snow covered peaks (Mount Hokata 3190 m / 10,466 ft) it is a lush agricultural area famous for its Wasabi-root plantations, fruit tree orchards and wine production. Some three hours by train from Tokyo, the largest town nearby is Matsumoto with a quarter of a million inhabitants, a quiet easy going town with lots of touristy shops and quirky art studios, the home town of the polka-dotted Yayoi Kusama. I even found a Monty Python themed whisky-bar there but that's another story...

Back at the paddy I'm starting to get tired. You see, one could try to use chemicals to keep the weeds down or use some sort of mechanical weeding machine, a tractor, to periodically mow between the rows. This however is very bad for the rice plants as it damages the roots and anyway no machine is that precise - it would leave weeds growing right next to and within the rice plant - and would require you to leave wide spaces between the rows for the tractor wheels. A human foot is only two inches wide and does not tear into the roots of the plants.

Our field was full of dragonflies buzzing around, frogs croaking happily away. But in a nearby field where they have put some sort of pesticide in the water it is all quiet and the water looks stale: and if you look closer you see dead tadpoles. Fortunately it is our field which runs into their field and not the other way around. It is the natural organic fields which must maintain higher ground to avoid being polluted by neighboring fields.

Work and toil maybe characteristic of the countryside everywhere but farmers have always tried to avoid useless work when possible. At the start of the season you grow rise seedlings in pots at the side of the paddy, trying to get them as strong and tall as possible so they have a head start over the weeds.

Stock photo: Japanese Rice planting machine

The paddy itself is well prepared with impermeable hard bottom and embankments. Flowing water usually from a natural source like a stream or a river brings with it nutrients which settle in it to form the fertile mud. Preferable you want to plant the young seedlings as fast as possible so as to avoid uneven growth in the field. It used to be that people of the village would help each other and gather to plant one field at a time. This still happens where there is community for it. But its hard work and nowadays there are machines that do it a lot faster. A rice planting machine can go and plant several fields in one day and not everyone needs to own one. You can even rent one for a day.

Ones the rice is planted you maintain a level of water just so rice stays above water to feed on the sun shine but weeds will have a hard time making roots and reaching the surface. For the first weeks you can use a traditional mechanical weeding-sled made of a long float pulled by ropes from opposite embankments which slides gently across the water and over the sturdy rice plants, dragging along with it a row of chains (I guess these might've been rocks or sticks in the old days). The chains disturb the mud and mix any weed saplings into it but slide gently past the rice plants without damaging them. It takes two men less than an hour to weed a whole field using this method. But you can do it for only so long. Ones the rice gets too high and inflexible the float would begin to damage it.

Aigamo ducks at our paddy in Azumino

Then come the ducks :3 Ducks have always been part of paddies, eating insects and slugs and some of the weeds. The Aigamo duck was formed for this special task. Bred to be flightless and fenced in, it will quite happily spend its entire life within the rice stalks gobbling any insects, slugs and some of the weeds - all for free - and then providing delicious meat when the harvest time arrives. They are super cute and follow you around the paddy, chirping loudly, hoping you will grab a handful of delicious dandelions or clovers to vary their boring diet. Paddies with ducks in them are extremely clean because they act like robot vacuum cleaners pecking and hoovering up anything that floats in the water.

Doing the weeding later gets tough.

Unfortunately the local wildlife also knows this delicacy. Reflective bands of string or whole nets are sometimes needed to keep predatory birds, hawks and eagles from snatching them from the field. And it seems there is no fence that can keep out the most cunning of predators: the fox. It was sad that on the last day of my stay at this place I missed the opportunity to say goodbye to the ducks which had happily chirped along my feet on many a day. A fox had broken in during the night and eaten a few and then just ripped to shreds each and every duck in our paddy. The farmer was more angry then me, vowing revenge. But I had nothing but sympathy for it. That is what I would have done as a fox.

Ones the rice is tall and begins to shadow the water, most of the weeds begin to stay back. However there are a few weeds, tall grass types, that can still take root and can grow rapidly to shadow the rice. And for these there are no chemicals, no machines, no ducks. One has to step into the paddy and rip them out with bare hands. And this is what I had been doing for sometime.

Stock photo: rice harvester

It is both a very boring and very exhausting task. You reach down into the muddy water and use your fingers to find anything that is beginning to grow out of the bottom around the rice plants. Usually you can only find a single blade of grass. You grab it but don't pull but follow it down into the mud with your fingertips and find its root. And then gently but firmly pull the whole plant, root and all, out and into a bucket you carry with you. And then you repeat this a couple thousand times an hour.

Even my host farmer thought this was the hardest work he had to offer. No other western volunteer had endured this job without constantly complaining. Fortunately I was at my peak physical fitness at that time, and had already acclimatized myself to the cycle of farm work at the previous place, a fruit orchard. So for me it was a challenge I though I could manage. Fortunately we usually only weeded for half a day at a time - then rested - and then did something more interesting and less heavy. And the satisfaction from completing a whole field - such weeding wouldn't be necessary until harvest time.

Bath house on a hill under mountain clouds

Once the fields were all weeded and vegetable patches taken care of, there was not much else for me to do than to hang some laundry and enjoy the mountain views, eat blue berries and look forward to onsen-bath in the evening. The local bath house was on a hill overlooking the valley and the best time to visit was after dark. The local farmers would all come and soak in the hot water after a long day of work. They would not treat us as strangers for they knew we were also working on the same orchards. 

From the pool outside you could gaze into the valley under a starry sky and just melt your aches into the steaming hot water.

 ~ Tinka ^^'

Night lights of Matsomoto ^^'